Cameras are a very personal thing, what might be perfect for one person, might be average to another.
Do your own research and figure out what might be good for you. I’ve used plenty of gear over the years, primarily focused on getting the best bang for my buck, so I’m just going to list some of my faves, if you have any questions about something specific please feel free to ask.
Though the camera industry is down as a whole thanks to smartphones, the latest mirrorless cameras statistics indicate that they’re dominating DSLR’s over years past, so I’d probably point you in that direction versus the traditional DSLR, but again do your research and find out what’s perfect for you.
Cameras
My thoughts tend to run counter to popular opinion, and I’ll illustrate that with my first example – the Sony A7.
Yes, the original Sony A7. I know, I know. I’m crazy. You’re dumbfounded. It’s 2024. Shouldn’t I be saying the Sony A1, A7R V, or at the very least the A7 IV?
Yes, this is a post on The Best Value Mirrorless Camera of 2024, but let’s set price aside for a second. In terms of image quality, how much better is the Sony A7R V vs the original A7?
Sony A7R V ($3900) vs Sony A7 (~$500)
According to the oft cited DxOMark, the A7R V does do better in low light, perhaps about 2/3rds of a stop better… which I would assume is the primary driver to the overall score difference of 100 to 90.
But let’s look at the Portrait (color depth) score – 24.8 vs 26.1 bits. A whopping difference of 1.3 bits. What does that mean? Well, DxOMark states that, “A color sensitivity of 22bits is excellent, and differences below 1 bit are barely noticeable.” 1.3 bits when the price difference could be about $3000.
How about Landscape (dynamic range) score – 14.2 vs 14.8 EV. Again, a small difference of 0.6 EV. Translation? DxOMark states that, “A value of 12 EV is excellent, with differences below 0.5 EV usually not noticeable.”
For all intents and purposes, the image quality is about equal. Then what are you really paying for?
The answer is features. The A7R V is much better for video, improved AF, faster burst shooting, IBIS, pan/flip/tilt screen, etc. The chart does show a notable increase in low light (ISO) performance, but it’s really about 2/3rds of a stop. Is it A7R V worth $3000+ more? Probably not for your average amateur, but that decision is up to you.
I just sold one my extra bodies, the Sony A7III for $850, let’s see how that stacks up…
Again, about 2/3 a stop better in low light.
Portrait (color depth) score – 24.8 vs 25 bits. A whopping difference of 0.2 bits. Again, DxOMark states that, “A color sensitivity of 22bits is excellent, and differences below 1 bit are barely noticeable.”
Landscape (dynamic range) score – 14.2 vs 14.7 EV. Again, a small difference of 0.5 bits. Again, DxOMark states that, “A value of 12 EV is excellent, with differences below 0.5 EV usually not noticeable.”
Value is subjective, and features are personal. Some people hate flip out screens, but for many vloggers or YouTubers it’s a must have. Some people have no need for a mic input, for anyone doing video, again, another must have. Some people have zero purpose for dual card slots, but for some professional photographers, it’s a must have… and the list goes on.
The Best Value Mirrorless Cameras in 2021
Sony A7 (or better yet any A7 series camera you can get your hands on under $1000) – $798 on Amazon – If most of your work is stills (especially low light), this full frame camera is one of the best options on the market. The A7S and A7R are alternatives you may want to consider as well. For gently used, the Sony A7 can be found for as low as $550 on eBay.
For comparison, the latest successor, the A7 III is $1998.
Panasonic G85 – $798 on Amazon – If video is important to you, this is my personal favorite. 4k and Dual IS are the stand out features missing on the A7. It also has a much better user interface, a flip out screen and it’s a very good stills cameras. See my YouTube review here. If you want to spend a little more, I eventually upgraded to G9 and love it. The GH5 is another alternative, as it’s one of the best camera options for filmmakers. The G85 is as low as $500 on eBay, and the G9 is as low as $800 on eBay.
Panasonic GX85 – $599 on Amazon – $599 and it’s bundled with two kit lenses, the 12-32mm (a very good pancake kit lens) and the 45-150mm f4.0-5.6. One of my fave all around cameras, I feel like it’s underrated in the market. It’s very similar to the G85, but does lack some important video features like a mic input, a flip out screen and Panasonic’s popular Cinelike-D and Cinelike-V profiles. However, there is a hack to get Cinelike-D & Cinelike profiles for the GX85. And you can use an external recorder if you do want better audio, as shown in this video of this Gx85 rig. I would also personally sell the 45-150mm lens for about $100, and put it towards one the lenses I recommend below.
If you want a flip out screen and a 20mp sensor (vs 16mp), you can opt for the latest iteration – the Panasonic G100.
Lenses
Cameras I prefer to buy new, but lenses I like to buy used. Cameras, anything can go wrong with them, and I have had a few issues in the past. But lenses, unless physically broken, seem to never have anything wrong with them.
I would definitely check for any physical damage, evidence that it has been dropped, etc. Check for dust inside of the lens, or scratches on the lens elements, as those can effect image quality.
You can get the best deals on eBay or your local Craigslist, OfferUp, etc. Check eBay for latest sold price, to the current selling price to see if you’re getting a good deal.
The Best Value Micro Four Thirds (Panasonic/Olympus) Lenses
I’ll be brief with my picks, see my guide on the best Micro Four Thirds Lenses for more detailed information.
I’ve owned many lenses for the Micro Four Thirds format, so I have a pretty good idea of the pros and cons of each.
As far as the best value, if I could only own one lens, it would be the:
Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4: Under $400 is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
One of the most versatile lenses, a 50mm equivalent and the f1.4 aperture allows you to let in a lot of light and use a shallow depth of field. So versatile I shot an entire wedding video with it:
Similar Alternatives to the Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4
- Panasonic-Leica 15mm f1.7: Under $400 is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
– If you want a little wider, say for street photography, this 30mm equivalent is about the same price of the Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4.
- Panasonic 20mm f1.7: Under $200 is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
– One of my all time favorites, truly one of the best value lenses on the format at under $200 used. The AF is a little slower, which is okay for stills, for but video I’d opt for the Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4.
Panasonic 42.5mm f1.7 or Olympus 45mm f1.8: Under $300 for the Panasonic, Under $225 for the Olympus is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
I owned the Olympus 45mm f1.8 for a long time before I upgraded to the Panasonic-Leica Nocticron 42.5mm f1.2. I upgraded not really from a value perspective, but because portraiture is my main line of work and I wanted the best lens (and the price didn’t really matter). But if you really look at the numbers, as far a sharpness, the Olympus 45mm f1.8 is really close to the Panasonic-Leica 42.5mm f1.2. The price difference really comes with the prestige of Leica, and the extra 1 and 1/3 stop you gain. Another alternative to consider would be the Olympus 75mm f1.8 which you can fetch for around $500-600 used.
More Lens Considerations
The aforementioned lenses are very versatile, so depending on your shooting style, you can add in another lens such as the:
Loawa 7.5mm f2.0: A relatively new lens that can be quite rare on the used market, so anything under it’s regular price at $500 is a good buy – Current Price on eBay
Who doesn’t love the ultra-wide look? We’re so use to seeing things shot at around 28mm, especially since 99% of people just take photos with their smartphone. That when you use a focal length far outside of that range, such as with portraiture, or with an ultra-wide angle lens, every photo is just a little more special, and has a little more stopping power.
Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 or Panasonic-Leica 12-60mm f2.8-4.0 – Around $500 for either is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
These lenses are probably the most versatile on the system, especially for video. If a lot of your work is video, and you could only have two lenses, I’d pick the aforementioned Panasonic-Leica 25mm f1.4 and the Panasonic-Leica 12-60mm f2.8-4.0. A fast prime and a versatile zoom can take you a long way.
The Best Value Sony Full Frame (FE) Lenses:
I find the beauty in the A7 series when you pair it with primes. When you pair it with a large zoom like the 70-200mm f2.8 you negate the size advantage. This is the Sony Zeiss 35mm f2.8 and 85mm f1.8, a beautiful combo of premium lenses:
But in terms of value, probably not your best options. My three favorites would be the:
Sony FE 28mm f2.0: Under $500 is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
If I didn’t have a Micro Four Thirds setup, and I could only choose two Sony FE lenses, it would be the 28mm f2.0 and 85mm f1.8. When I just got started with photography, I remember Zack Arias telling me that you can go a long way with two primes, one short and one long.
Sony FE 50mm f1.8: Under $200 is a Good Buy – Current Price on eBay
A budget “nifty-fifty” is popular with any system and this is no different. At under $200, it’s a no brainer if you’re looking for a new lens at a really good value… especially if your only lens right now is the kit lens (which is a lot of people)!
Sony FE 85mm f1.8: Around $550 is a Good Buy Current Price on eBay
This relative newcomer is a budget friendly option for those who don’t want to splurge $1800 on the Sony 85mm f1.8 GM or $1100 on the Sony Zeiss Batis 85mm f1.8. At only $600 new, it still benchmarks relatively well against GM and Zeiss Batis. Another option would be the Sigma Art 85mm f1.4, currently listed at $1039, it’s still a good value versus the $1800 Sony 85mm f1.8 GM.
My Contrarian Pick (and my personal favorite “budget” lens)
Mitakon 50mm f0.95: Pretty rare on the used market, if you can find one in the $500’s, that’s a solid deal) – Current Price on eBay
Honestly, this is my favorite lens. But I list it last because I don’t recommend it for most people. For one, it’s manual focus. Not something most people are used to. However, the focus peaking on Sony cameras are very good. And two, f0.95 is a really shallow depth of field. You can’t even tilt your subject without an eye being out of focus. But if you get the right shots, it looks amazing. Most reviews of this lens are actually pretty critical, but they were very technical in nature. When you see what this lens can do in the hands of a good photographer, it will make you throw all that technical mumbo jumbo to the side. This review by wedding photographer Will Chao, is actually what sold me on this lens. The images he created with this lens, and at f0.95, are simply amazing.
The Sony A7 + Mitakon 50mm f0.95 is a beautiful combo, if you have the patience. It’s so vastly different from the camera I use the most, the Panasonic G9. With the G9 I can spray and pray if I really wanted to, it shoots 60FPS in RAW. That’s 60 full resolution raw photos in a second, and that’s with auto focus. With the A7 + Mitakon 50mm f0.95, I’m just looking to capture a couple shots per minute. And isn’t that what photography is really about – capturing the shot?
Value in Micro Four Thirds vs Full Frame
The beauty of full frame is that it’s easier to capture shots at a shallower depth of field, which is great for portraiture.
But counter-argument, you don’t need full frame to blur the background. Here’s a shot with the Panasonic-Leica 42.5mm f1.2:
Yes, I know. On Micro Four Thirds you can use a speedbooster and achieve the same look, but then you have to pay $500+ for the speedbooster. So the question may be, how much blur do you really want?
With video, you often need a deeper depth of field and that’s where Micro Four Thirds could hold an advantage to most people.
And keep in mind, lenses are much larger for full frame because they have to cover a larger sensor. This means that similar lenses are often at least twice the price.
Other Must Have Gear
“Must have” really depends on you. But I’m guessing everyone could use a tripod and an external flash.
For a flash, you can’t go wrong with the $35 Neweer tt560. If you can shoot a camera in manual mode, you can learn to shoot a flash in manual. It’s perfect for portraiture.
If you shoot events, you could consider an automatic TTL Flash. Checkout my recommendations on TTL Flashes for Panasonic and Olympus cameras.
For tripods, see my post on the best value travel tripods for lightweight cameras.
I will be adding other posts here, such as the best value gear for headshots, the best value gear for product photography, etc. So be sure to subscribe to our email list for pleasantly infrequent emails on really good content!